Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

'Dusk till Dawn' Alaska Kichatna 04

Middle Triple Peak (2,693m) in the remote Kichatna Spires area (aka Cathedral Spires) has only been climbed a few times, and this team hoped to make the first ascent of its SE pillar as the start of a traverse from the Shadows glacier to the Sunshine glacier. However, after moving kit to their intended start point, they soon realised that with a continuous rain of carsized boulders, the glacier snout which gave the only access to the east face was far too dangerous to move through. They therefore directed their attention to the east wall of nearby Mount Nevermore (2,469m), on which they successfully climbed a new 1,000m route, Perfect Storm (VI, M6 E4 A1) in 10 days, six of which were spent continuously on the wall. They described the weather during this period as 'very Scottish', although the sun did shine on their summit day.

April - May 2004
Stuart McAleese with Dai Lampard and Mike 'Twid' Turner

Other expeditions nearby