Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Fersmana III

This was a follow-up to an expedition in 2009 [reference 09/27] which was dropped off 25km short of the intended spot in the central part of the Western Kokshaal-too., and thus forced to waste valuable time (and weather) ferrying gear, subsequently only managing two days climbing in a month. Not put off by this, they returned in 2011 determined to explore and make some first ascents. Their principle objective was a fine snow pyramid, Fersmana III (5,210m) at the head of the Sarychat Glacier. After acclimatising with an attempt on Sentinel Peak via a gully on the east flank of Pik Lyell (4,864m), they split into two pairs to follow different lines on Fers III, Granberg & Mottram climbing a continuous icy ramp to the main ridge, while Evans & Lemon hugged the rock further right. Both routes then crossed the final rock band on the summit ridge by mixed chimneys at AI4 and M5. Both pairs then followed the same line up the final 300m; snow steepening to 55/60°, passing the summit sérac on the left and descended their lines, regaining camp 28 hours after leaving. Both routes were c.1200m in length and provisionally graded ED1.due to high altitude technical difficulties with significant risk of avalanche and rockfall. They decided to rename the peak Eggmendüluük, a Kyrkyz word meaning Independence. Before leaving the area, Granberg and Mottram also climbed scree gullies and a ridge in poor condition to reach two adjacent tops above base camp; Pik 4631m and Pik 4685m, which they named Pik Georgina and Pik Annika respectively.

July - August 2011
Gareth Mottram with Charlie Evans and Edward Lemon (UK) plus Hannes Granberg from Sweden (SE)

Other expeditions nearby