International UIi Biaho 2005
This team hoped to make the first ascent of the stunning 2,000m line on the NE buttress of Uli Biaho (6,109m) in pure alpine style: however, on arrival at its foot they realised why it remained unclimbed - a 60m summit mushroom avalanched down the face several times each day, making the route completely unjustifiable. An attempt on the mountain's south ridge took them within 400m of the summit before a storm forced a retreat. Three expedition members then made the first ascent of a 1,600m rock route (VI, 5.11, A2 AI3, MS) on the SW ridge of Trango II (6,327m), which they named 'Severance Ridge'.
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