Rondoy West Face 2005

For the leader this was a return to an area that he had visited 12 months earlier as a member of lain Rudkin's expedition [MEF 04/37]. Their prime objective was a new route up the obvious ice funnel on the west face of Nevado Rondoy (5,879m) in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Unfortunately there had been little snowfall in the area since May, so conditions were dry and the glacier had changed considerably, making the approach dangerous and the route unjustifiable. Conditions on Jirishanca (6,094m) were no more encouraging, but the summit of Cerro Mexico (5,040m) was reached via its west ridge (D). They therefore decided to carry out a thorough exploration of the east side of the Copa Massif in the Cordillera Blanca. Here they had more success, reaching the summits of Copa (6,188m), Artesonraju (6,040m), Tocllaraju (6,025m), and Chopicalqui (6,534m) by routes up to D+, and reconnoitring various other peaks. In the light of their experience, they now feel that conditions would probably be safer earlier in the climbing season, eg May-June.