Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Scottish Cordillera Huayhuash 2004

Although all members of this team had reasonable Alpine experience, only one had previous experience of the Greater Ranges. Plans to climb new ice faces - in particular the W face of Nevado Rondoy (5,879m) - had to be changed when it was discovered that the area had been virtually stripped of snow. However, they were successful in climbing the E ridge of Urus Este (5,420m) plus the NW side of Ishinca (5,530m) (both PD-) and reaching 5,900m on the NW ridge of Tocllaraju before retreating due to altitude sickness of one of the team. They then moved to the Cordillera Blanca region where conditions were more favourable. Here they made near successful attempts on the SE face of Artesonaraju (6,025m) and a complete ascent of the W face of Paron Sur (c5,600m)(AD+), this probably being a first ascent.

August - September 2004
lain Rudkin with Alasdair Buchanan, Gareth Hughes, Andrew McIntyre, Kevin Neal and Neil Stewart

Other expeditions nearby