Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Teng Kangpoche North Face

'Officially' unclimbed, Teng Kangpoche (6,500m) had already been subject to an attempt by this leader in 2003, when he climbed a solo line, 'Love and Hate' on the NE face to the point where it joined the east ridge, some 200m below the summit. [See 03/31]. With a new companion, he now planned to repeat this route, and then attempt a new one up the NW face. Due to the snow conditions, the NE face proved harder in 2004, and after triggering two avalanches and experiencing 'the most intense 12 hours of his life', they curtailed their attempt at 5,400m. Fortunately, the snow on the NW face was more forgiving, and although suffering from extreme cold, they reached a crest on the W ridge at 6,210m, some 1km short of the summit. It was obvious that special techniques would be required from here, so they retreated down their ascent line. They called their 1,600m route 'Edge of Darkness', and graded it TD+/ED1, Scottish IV.

October - November 2004
Nick Bullock with Nick Carter

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