UK International K2

The original intention of this team was to make the first ascent of the E Face of K2, 8,611m, but after reaching a height of 6,200m it was felt that the danger of avalanche made the route unacceptable in summer. The steep mixed ground of the East Rib was next climbed to 6,300m before this was abandoned for a similar reason. The Basque Route appeared to offer a safer line, and on this they reached 6,400m before the weather broke. Meanwhile, Allen and Berbeka were on the Abruzzi Ridge to acclimatise and recce the descent route. With unusually high daytime temperatures they climbed by night, but nevertheless initiated a major avalanche and were swept 400m from their 6,500m high point, Berbeka sustaining serious spinal injuries.