Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Ramsden and Miller Establish New Route 'The Phantom Line' on Jugal Spire (6,563m)

British climbers Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of the previously unclimbed and unnamed Jugal Spire in Nepal's Jugal Himal via a remarkable new route which traverses the steep north face of the mountain via a near-continuous line of ice.

Ramsden Miller Cover

Miller and Ramsden had discovered the peak while searching Google Earth during lockdown. When restrictions lifted, they obtained permits and set out to assess the face up close.

What they found was a single line of weakness that seemed to come and go with the light and angle of view. But it hinted at the possibility of a route that would take them all the way to the top.

Miller Ramsden5

Trusting that they would be able to find a way, the pair set off and, climbing alpine-style over 5 days, eventually reached the summit before taking another day to descend back down to the valley.

The pair have offered an alpine grade of ED+ for the route and, due to its difficulty to spot, have dubbed it 'The Phantom Line'.

Discussing the route with UKClimbing, Paul had this to say about the route and its major difficulties:

"The route itself shouldn't really be there, as it's no place for an ice route. However after many hours of studying the wall we managed to piece together an almost continuous line of snow and ice. One noticeable problem was a blank piece of rock in the centre of the wall, however when we got there we found a hidden squeeze chimney that climbed inside the rock for about three pitches making the whole thing possible. The chimney was a sack hauling nightmare."


This expedition was supported by an MEF grant and a complete report will be coming to the website in due course.