Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Alaskan Big Wall 1996

This team of two British and two American climbers originally planned to attempt a new route on the S Face of Mt Dickey, 2,909m, in Ruth Gorge, climbing in pairs. This is one of the largest Big Walls to be found in a mountain environment. However, with temperatures rarely dipping below freezing, there was a high risk of rockfall, so Craine and Surette decided to attempt a slender overhanging pillar on the E Face of Mt Barrille instead. But a combination of huge crevasses, broken seracs and 'a fairly high level of fear' prevented them even reaching the foot of this route. Meanwhile, after very enjoyable climbing (mainty A1-A3), the team on Dickey hit very rotten rock some 500m (less than halfway) up the face and reluctantly aban­doned the attempt.

May - June 1996
Dr Noel Craine with Roger 'Strappo' Hughes, Steve Quinlan and Jim Surette

Other expeditions nearby