Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

British Karakoram

As the Markhum region of the Karakoram was closed until 1986, Zartgarbin, 5,850m (aka Saue Gerdan), had only received one previous attempt, and that was by a team from a British school. Examination of photographs taken on that occasion led the present team to think that it would be possible to ascend a relatively straightforward snow couloir to gain the NE Ridge. However, a series of hot summers in the intervening years had made drastic changes to the terrain, and the anticipated snow turned out to be bare ice. Cox suffered a chest complaint, so he and his partner turned back, leaving Coffey and Smith to continue to 5,300m, where a shortage of ice screws forced them to abandon the attempt. As they arrived back at BC a storm broke, with some of the heaviest rain experienced in Pakistan for over 100 years.

August - September 1997
Colm Coffey with Pete Cox, Stephen Gale, Craig Lyle and Chris Smith

Other expeditions nearby