Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Buckskin Glacier Take Two

With only three big wall ‘aid’ routes on the east face of Bear Tooth (3207m), this pair of climbers hoped to establish another one up the central fault line or the continuous corner system on the left- hand side of the face. Unfortunately, they arrived in the area just after a massive storm had deposited almost a metre of fresh snow over the entire range. Their intended objective was therefore out of condition, so they turned their attention to the Moose’s Tooth (3150m) on the eastern side of Ruth Gorge. On this peak they climbed a big fault line on the right-hand side of the east face, achieving a 1400m new route 'There’s a Moose Loose Aboot the Hoose' (ED4, M8, A2, AIG), stopping on the north ridge 100m short of the summit because of a dangerous sérac. They also climbed a probable new route on the north-west face of the Mini Moonflower Buttress of Mount Hunter, (4442m) to the left of the Prezelj/Koch route Luna.

April - May 2008
Jon Bracey & Matt Helliker

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