Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory


This team planned an exploratory climbing trip in the Central Alaska Range. From the Kahiltna Base Camp, they skied 27 km up the previously unexplored North West Fork of the Lacuna Glacier (south of Foraker) and settled for an attempt on an unclimbed top marked as Peak 12,213 (3,723m), south of The Fin. Their first attempt was via its SE Ridge, but after climbing of M5 and AI2, and reaching a point c750m up, they were forced to retreat due to storm conditions. After a return to Kahiltna and an ascent of the West Ridge of Mt Hunter (4441m) they renewed their assault on Peak 12,213, this time via the South Buttress, left of the previously attempted ridge. This time they were more successful, climbing the buttress and couloir above (M6 A1 AI2) to join the SE Ridge about 1,000m above its base. But once more bad weather forced a retreat. Their third attempt was via a more direct line up a couloir in the centre of the South Face. With more amenable snow and ice conditions they reached their previous high point in just five hours continuing up a corniced crest to the summit, and regained their camp after a 20-hour round trip. They have name the route ‘To the Center’ (1,370m: AI2 and cornices), and the summit ‘Voyager Peak’ after a NASA satellite.

May 2011
Graham Zimmerman (NZ/US) with Mark Allen (US)

Other expeditions nearby