Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory


An attempt on the unclimbed North face of Muz-Tok (5066m), part of the Pamir Alai range in South West Kygyzstan, and with three other unclimbed peaks as possible secondary objectives. The approach was from Osh to the roadhead at Sary Zhaz via Batken by 4×4, followed by a 2.5 day walk in to base camp. After acclimatisation a number of attempts on Muz-Tok failed early on due to bad weather and poor climbing conditions. A further attempt was made by Proctor and Taylor, and they succeeded in climbing the face of the pyramid which jutted out of Muz-Tok to the North, but were unable to surmount the short final headwall that linked this to the true summit. They descended by abseil down the ascent route. Taylor and Mullen each separately climbed a subsidiary peak of Kara-Eet. The three secondary objectives remain unclimbed.

July 2016
John Proctor, Robert Taylor, Ciaran Mullen and Phil Dawson

Other expeditions nearby