Makalu - Kangchuntse (or Makalu II) 1980

This 4-member, lightweight, alpine-style team, including Doug Scott and Roger Baxter-Jones, made their base camp in late September where the Chago Glacier joins the Barun. Kangchuntse (Makalu II) was climbed, partly on ski, by the airy ridge from the Makalu La. Their attempt to traverse Makalu, up by the SE ridge and down the original French W route to the Makalu La, was defeated by strong winds; after 3 nights in the E cwm under Makalu's summit, and in the mountain's snow plume, food shortage forced a retreat.