Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

NZ Ancohuma/llampu NE Cordillera Real

These NZ climbers planned to climb new routes on Ilampu (6,384m) and Ancohuma (6,427m), but due to 2004 being an extremely dry year in Bolivia, all the big 'mixed' walls were bare and exposed to rockfall, making them prohibitively hazardous. They therefore turned their attention to other more accessible peaks, and succeeded in climbing new routes on Pt 5573m (which they named 'Pico Wiphala', after the original multi-coloured Inca flag symbolising the 'wisdom of the wind'), Gorra de Hielo (5,760m), Aguja Yacuma (6,072m) and Pico Emma Maria (5,531m). Climbing grades were up to American Alpine VI and French TD.

July - August 2004
Erik Monasterio with Mike Brown

Other expeditions nearby