Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Parachute Brigade MC Alaska Expedition 1956

After being dropped into the range by the US Air Force, the party travelled up the Traleika Glacier over 8 days. After establishing a camp, they climbed to a col between Mounts Tatum and Carpe. Their attempt on Tatum was successful, but fresh snow frustrated their plans to climb Carpe and they were ultimately unsuccessful on the second peak. Subsequently they moved their camp further up the glacier and climbed to a second col from which, after waiting out some bad weather, they split the party and attempted the two summits rising from the col. One attempt was unsuccessful, but the other succeeded in the firts ascent of a mountain which the ascensionists dubbed 'Mount Staghorn'. Subsequent attempts on the other unclimbed peak, dubbed 'Anniversary Peak' were also unsuccessful and after several days the team retreated. A recce of Mount Pegasus revealed a likely route and, despite challenging conditions with high winds, a successful ascent was made before the return march down the glacier and return to civilisation. The expedition also made significant geological collections, returning with a large quantity of rock samples.

May - July 1956
E. J. E. Mills, Donald Kinloch, Derek Pritchard and Warwick Deacock

Other expeditions nearby