Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Untouched: First ascents in the Djangart (Kyrgyzstan)

The Djangart region of Kyrgyzstan’s Kokshaal-Too range has seen little activity from western mountaineers, so seemed an ideal venue for an exploratory expedition. Prior to departure, the team identified three peaks of particular interest, and although they experienced rain almost every day, they did indeed climb three peaks – but not those originally contemplated. First success was on Pt 4766 on which Clark, Royer and Traver climbed the 700m ‘Horseman’s Horror’, D+ on its NW Face. During the approach to the second peak, Pt 5080, Clark became unwell and (accompanied by Maddison) had to return to Bishkek for medical treatment. Meanwhile Royer and Traver climbed the 700m ‘Will your anchor hold?’ TD- on its E face, and finally on the N Ridge of Pt 5048, the 650m ‘Postcard for the Chief’. Names for each of the peaks have been proposed to the Kyrgyz Alpine Club, viz ‘Peak Howard Bury’, ‘Peak Sutherland’ and ‘Peak of Illumination’.

July - August 2010
Matt Traver with Dan Clark & Jamie Maddison from UK plus Chris Parenteau & Mike Royer from USA

Other expeditions nearby