Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Cambridge North Persian 1956

This party of six, comprising four climbers and two naturalists, travelled overland to Tehran from where they set out for the Elburz mountains, establishing a basecamp near Hazar Chal. Here they made ascents of Alam Kuh by both its east and west ridges, ascents of Gardune Kuh, including the likely first ascent of the north-east gully and a traverse of the south-east ridge of Siah Sang Kuh. While the naturalists moved on to the Hazar Cham Pass to conduct a survey of flora and fauna, the climbers relocated camp to a less well-travlled glacier to the north-west. Here they made an ascent of Takht-i-Suleiman and what they believed to be the first traverse of the Haft Khan Ridge. (This has actually been achieved a short while earlier by a Franco-Iranian expedition. They subsequently explored an area to the north-west of Demavend which had been recommended to them by the Irania Mountaineering Federation. However, they found little of interest from a mountaineering perspective and consoled themselves with an ascent of Demavend to end the expedition.

June - 1956
W. J. E. Norton, W. B. Anderson, D. J. R. Cook, K. A. McDougall, J. E. H. Mustoe and J. G. R. Harding