Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory


The Kagbhusandi valley is located close to Joshimath and the Valley of Flowers in the Indian Garhwal. This team planned to explore the upper reaches of the Semartoli glacier, and make first ascents of peaks in the area. In particular they hoped to climb Barmal (5979m) the highest peak bordering the valley, and a new route on Oti-ka-danda (5782m). However, on arrival in the area, they realised that due to the poor state of its NW Face and SW Ridge, a meaningful attempt would require the use of fixed ropes, so although they reached a 5008m col to its north west, they then turned their attention to other peaks in the immediate area. Three of these received first ascents including the highest, which they tentatively named Kaghusandi Parbat (5301m):. the others were Pk 5210 and Pk 5120, each route being graded PD to PD+. In addition, Pk 5515 on the inspiring N Ridge of Pk 5855 (to the north of Oti-ka-danda) also received its first ascent via the SW Couloir at a grade of AD.

September - October 2012
Dr Derek Buckle with Joanna Campbell, Mike Cocker, John Kentish, Paul Padman, Mike Pinney & Stuart Worsfold plus John Temple as a trekker.

Other expeditions nearby