Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory


Pik Cosmos is the second highest mountain in the Western Kok-shal Too in Kyrgyzstan. The objective was a new route on the N face. After an eventful and extended journey from Bishkek, interrupted by several vehicle breakdowns, they reached the drop-off point near the Kotur basin. From here there was a long walk-in, which took more time than planned because of the illnesses of two of the party. During the walk-in two acclimatisation ascents were made – Pk Alpini (4578m) by Ward and McGie, and Pk 4326 by Ward, both in the Kotur Basin. A base camp was eventually established where the two arms of the Grogor’ev glacier meet, and where there was running water. From here they were able to reconnoitre the N face of Kosmos, and witnessed several substantial serac falls and avalanches, and decided that it was too dangerous for them, and looked for alternatives. Ward, McGie and Abrahamsson chose Pk 5190 above the Grigo’ev basin. A glaciated couloir led to a series of ice and mixed pitches, before the final snow slopes to the summit. The couloir had a height gain of 700m at 45-55 degrees, followed by a series of ice falls with mixed pitches (AI 3 or 3+, M3), leading to ice/snow slopes and the summit. Other peaks attempted included Pk 5013 (Ward) and Pk 5007 (Swift), both retreated in poor conditions. They then made the long trek back to the road, during which Ward climbed Pik Oleg (c 4600m).

September - October 2015
Emily Ward, Mikael Abrahamsson, Harry McGie and Heather Swift

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